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EXPLORING KENTUCKY - October 2004
by Katherine Tandy Brown

Boo-ti-full Frankfort
State capital abounds with historical haunts

With well over 200 years under its belt, Kentucky’s capital city has had plenty of time to nurture its share of historical haunts. Even the town’s name grew from a tragic incident.

In 1780, Indians killed Lexingtonian Stephen Frank on the banks of the Kentucky River as he camped with a party traveling to Jefferson County to manufacture salt at various licks. Afterwards, settlers referred to the area as “Frank’s Ford,” which, with a slight alteration, became its permanent moniker in 1830.

Though no reports of Frank sightings have surfaced through the years, a number of other restless spirits have met their demise in the area, and – rumor has it – have hung around to add a bit of local color. Between 1820 and 1914, 30 people were murdered in a four-block area of downtown Frankfort. Master of the macabre, Edgar Allen Poe even wrote his only play, a bizarre recounting called Politian, about one of them.

Come October, Russ Hatter, assistant curator of historic sites for the city of Frankfort, tells about that crime while leading evening “Murder and Mayhem Tours” each Tuesday through Halloween. Dressed as a 1910-era policeman, this lively historian relates a number of unfortunate incidents, some in gory detail, while winding through alleys to actual scenes of crimes. Because of that, the tour is for adults.

“We’ll go no matter what the weather,” Hatter says. “All those umbrellas glistening in the rain add a wonderful mystery.”

Because this river town has such a fascinating past, its Ghosts of Frankfort tours on Halloween weekend focuses on history and unlike many spooky attractions, not on the “jump out and scare ‘em” quotient. Encompassing two diverse locations with colorful pasts, they’re definitely family-friendly.

Right downtown in the old quarter, Liberty Hall Historic Site includes a pair of stately Georgian homes – Liberty Hall itself and the 1835 Orlando Brown House – just up Wilkinson Street from the “Corner in Celebrities,” so-called because so many justices, senators and even presidents lived here in the decade following 1820.

Built a bit earlier, Liberty Hall, circa 1796 and a National Historic Landmark, was the home of lawyer and reluctant politician John Brown, Kentucky’s first U. S. senator, and his wife Margaretta, who began the first Sunday School west of the Alleghenies. According to treasured family letters, famous houseguests included Aaron Burr, French General Lafayette, President James Monroe and his aides, Zachary Taylor and Andrew Jackson.

Another visitor to the handsome brick home, Margaretta Van Varrick, her namesake’s beloved aunt, passed away while visiting to comfort her niece after the death of a child. During Ghosts of Frankfort, actors portraying the Browns, one of their slaves Hannah and Van Varrick’s spirit, or “The Gray Lady,” take you back to their own time.

“Our resident ghost, the Gray Lady, isn’t frightening,” says Sarah Harger, director of Liberty Hall Historic Site. She simply tells how her story became a part of Liberty Hall’s tradition.”

Reports of ghost sightings and/or hearings seem almost common around Civil War battlefields, and though not a major siege, Frankfort’s late-war skirmish on Fort Hill had its casualties. Here, two preserved earthworks forts mark the site where a detachment of John Hunt Morgan’s raiders-turned-bank-robbers met resistance to their plan to flee across the river in the form of 140 townspeople, who defended the Union stronghold.

Surrounded by 125 acres of forest, you’ll bump past historic dry-laid stone fences built not by slaves but by Scots and Irishmen. (Freed slaves took up the trade after the war.) Though rascal Johnny Rebs come up and hassle folks on the wagons during Ghosts of Frankfort, “it’s not your regular scary Halloween experience,” says Hatter. “We take what actually happened and bring it to life. It’s educational and fun.”

Stay late hobnobbing on Fort Hill, then spend the night downtown at The Meeting House Bed and Breakfast, where you just might witness a real spirit or two. And it isn’t that of the Civil War-era owner who hid his horse in the living room from marauding soldiers. According to current proprietors Rose and Gary Burke, two children died here and people have heard them crying.

Yet whether or not you believe in “haints,” Rose’s scrumptious breakfasts will soothe your soul…and tummy.


Upcoming Events Around Kentucky

A Shaker Breakfast
Shaker Museum at South Union
850 Shaker Museum Road, Auburn
Saturdays, November 6 and 13
(800) 811-8379
www.shakermuseum.com
shakmus@logantele.com


Sit down to a Civil War-era menu of eggs, sausage, fried chicken, sweet potatoes, biscuits and more, served in the 1869 Shaker Tavern. Reservations required for both 8:30 and 10:30 a.m. seatings.

October Court Days
Downtown Mt. Sterling
October 16 – 18
(859) 498-8732
mtourism@mis.net

Step back in time to a 200-year-old tradition begun when mountain folks came to town to trade for winter supplies and have their day in court. Come ready to buy, sell or trade, peruse crafts and antiques and chow down at food booths throughout the entire town.

North American International Livestock Exhibition
Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center
937 Phillips Lane, Louisville
November 6 – 19
www.livestockexpo.org
david.snider@mail.state.ky.us


The world’s largest purebred livestock show, with more than 20,000 entries, including dairy cattle, dairy goats, llamas, quarter horses, draft horses, market swine, beef cattle, boer goats and sheep. Stick around for the North American Championship Rodeo.

Fall Photography Weekend
Pennyrile Forest State Resort Park
20781 Pennyrile Lodge Road
Dawson Springs
October 15 – 17
(800) 225-PARK
www.parks.ky.gov


Photo contest, slide critique and awards for novice and professional photographers. Lodging discount for participants.

Equus Run Vineyards
1280 Moores Mill Road, Midway
November 6
(877) 905-CORK
www.kyvine.com


Support God’s Pantry at a wine-tasting open house. Admission is two non-perishable food items. Live entertainment from 1 to 4 p.m.

Art of the American Frontier
Owensboro Museum of Fine Art
901 Frederica Street, Owensboro
(800) 489-1131
October 24 – December 31
omfa@mindspring.com


This groundbreaking exhibitcompares period examples of frontier art with examples in the same medium by contemporary artists.




 

Katherine Tandy Brown is a staff writer for The Lane Report.
editorial@lanereport.com

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