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EXPLORING KENTUCKY - February 2005
by Katherine Tandy Brown

Fightin', Feudin' and Diggin' Up Coal
Heritage center offers a glimpse of days past in Appalachia

Chock full of coal, Kentucky’s Appalachians rise rugged, spawning breathtaking beauty each spring when dogwoods, rhododendrons and mountain laurels shout an end to winter’s frosty grays, and cedar-strewn mountainsides brighten with brilliant pinks and purples, creamy whites and soft lilacs.

Harboring a fierce loyalty to place, this stark beauty has lent its hills and hollers as a stage for makers of music with songs in their fingers and hearts, Civil War soldiers vying for land, feuding families bound for vengeance, men covered with coal dust and hardy

There’s no place better to explore the fascinating Big Sandy Valley legacy than the 3,000-square-foot Big Sandy Heritage Center (BSHC), which opened in Pikeville in 2003.

The railroad began to chug through this coal town in 1905. Though the original track bed is now a boulevard, the 1924 C&O passenger depot – a Kentucky landmark – houses the center, complete with a refurbished caboose next door.

Appropriately, museum management has some pretty strong train connections.

“My dad was an engineer,” says curator Everett Johnson. “He drove the locomotive so fast and used the whistle so much, they called him ‘Wild Bill Johnson’.”

With the enthusiasm of a rail fan, he points out old timetables and brakemen’s lanterns, and relates stories heard at his father’s knee.

In a room devoted to mining, Johnson explains the difference between strip and deep mining, and how coal barons became wealthy paying a dollar an acre for mineral rights. We see old mining equipment, bathhouse baskets that kept miners’ street clothes free of black dust, and a cage that housed a canary used to warn of noxious mine gases.

Open all year, the center is a treasure of quality Civil War memorabilia, including bullets from the Battle of Middle Creek (near Prestonsburg), a Spencer repeating rifle, era musical instruments and a bloodstained case from an unknown soldier’s death pillow.

“This area tried to stay out of the war,” explains David Deskins, circuit court clerk for Pike County and chairman of BSHC. “Most of the mountain folks were independent ol’ cusses and were poor, so they didn’t have much to do with slaves anyway. That really wasn’t an issue. People chose sides because of their individual beliefs. This is truly where you saw brother against brother.

A myriad of story-telling photos backs his case. Subjects include James A. Garfield, who led a Union brigade to victory at Middle Creek, and Confederate Capt. Martin van Buren Bates, a 7’11” Pike County man who married a woman an inch taller, to become the world’s tallest couple. Really. Turns out Johnson is a descendent of Bates.

“Once he was out of the Civil War,” Johnson says, “the giant was so disturbed by the public’s reaction to him that he joined a circus.”

Bates is but one of the county’s copious characters the museum addresses. John Paul Riddle, a daredevil barnstormer, smiles from a photo in a biplane cockpit. The early 20th-century aviator became one of the first air mail carriers, trained pilots in World War II and co-founded one of the country’s foremost aeronautical schools. Way ahead of her time, Ellie Waller Smith became a published African-American writer in the early 1900s.

But by far the best-known residents went by the surnames of Hatfield and McCoy. Reminders of the feud that garnered national attention, portraits of patriarchs “Devil Anse” Hatfield and “Ran’l” McCoy gaze down as Johnson animatedly offers historic possibilities of the bloody altercation’s beginnings.

Its roots, he says, were firmly planted in the Civil War, with starting incident theories ranging from a fight over beef to an ill-fated love affair between Roseanna McCoy and Johnse Hatfield. Decide for yourself by reading a firsthand account of some of the related battles and funerals in era newspapers. Or pay a visit to nearby Dils Cemetery, where key family players are buried.

The whole shebang ended near the turn of the century with a Hatfield hanging, but the hatchet wasn’t officially buried until both family members signed a peace treaty at Pikeville’s annual spring Hatfield-McCoy Reunion in 2003.

Don’t miss the museum’s Native American collection, its unusual display of sackcloth quilts, an impressive old tool collection and a book published in 1577 of the writings of Martin Luther. Only in Pikeville!

For more information, check out www.bigsandyheritage.org or phone Southern & Eastern Kentucky Tourism Development Association at 877-TOUR-SEKY.


Upcoming Events Around Kentucky

29th Humana Festival of New American Plays
Actors Theatre of Louisville
316 West Main Street, Louisville
February 27 – April 9
800-4-ATL-TIX
www.actorstheatre.org
mail@actorstheatre.org


Internationally acclaimed showcase of groundbreaking stage premieres.

Elk Viewing Tours
Jenny Wiley State Resort Park
75 Theatre Court, Prestonsburg
February 26 and March 5
(800) 325-0142
parks.ky.gov/jwiley2.htm
jennywiley@ky.gov


Beginning in 1997, elk were introduced to Kentucky after being gone from the state for 150 years. Any age group can come on van tours to witness these magnificent animals.

Lexington Antiques & Garden Show
Keene Barn
Keeneland Race Course, Lexington
March 11 – 13
(859) 253-0362
www.bluegrasstrust.org
info@bluegrasstrust.org


The Blue Grass Trust for Historic Preservation sponsors this show featuring 40 distinguished antiques dealers and garden specialists.

Annual Buffalo Dinner and Native American Heritage
Kentucky Dam Village State Resort Park
113 Administration Drive
Gilbertsville
February 18 – 20, noon – 8 p.m.
(800) 325-0142
parks.ky.gov/kydam2.htm
kentuckydamvillage@ky.gov


A buffalo buffet with other traditional Kentucky fare highlights a weekend filled with Native American culture.

Kentucky Crafted: The Market
South Wing A, Kentucky Fair and Expo Center, Louisville
Saturday, March 5 (9 am – 6 pm) – Sunday, March 6 (10 am – 5 pm)
(888) 592-7238
www.kycraft.ky.gov
kycraft@mail.state.ky.us


Kentucky Crafted: The Market features more than 300 exhibitors of the state’s finest crafts, two dimensional visual art, food products, books and music.

Black History Celebration 2005: And the Children Shall Lead Them
Highlands Museum and Discovery Center
1620 Winchester Avenue, Ashland
January 14 – February 25
(606) 329-8888
www.highlandsmuseum.com
highlandsmuseum@yahoo.com


Exhibit features photos and memorabilia from the Booker T. Washington School, which long served as the area’s educational and social center for the Black community.




 

Katherine Tandy Brown is a staff writer for The Lane Report.
editorial@lanereport.com

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